By Edson Baraukwa | Africa Guardian
Amid the anticipated weather disruptions of Paris Fashion Week, the Palais Brongniart became a vibrant stage for CANEX (Creative Africa Nexus) Presents Africa, a talent development platform dedicated to highlighting the continent’s design prowess. Despite the dreary gray skies and relentless rain, the energy in the former stock exchange, a historic venue previously used by fashion icons like Raf Simons and Off-White, was anything but subdued.
At this significant event, designers Lagos Space Programme, Thebe Magugu, and Sukeina presented unique interpretations of the current landscape of African fashion.
Lagos Space Programme kicked off the show with “The New Lagos Look,” a collection by Adeju Thompson, who founded the Nigerian label in 2014 and won last year’s International Woolmark Prize. The collection drew inspiration from Nigeria’s rich cultural heritage, reflecting traditional attire and the contemporary style of Lagos youth. “My work focuses on highlighting an alternative African narrative,” Thompson explained backstage. “I take elements that are traditionally Yoruba and explore how to modernize them.”
This vision translated into generously tailored garments, including zippered bomber jackets in pinstriped wool, vibrant silk shirts, and flowy poplin caftans. The use of indigo dyeing, a hallmark of Yoruba craftsmanship, appeared in denim car coats and cozy hoodies, while playful halter-neck waistcoats and flirty miniskirts added a youthful touch. “I’m representing Lagos and the spirit of my community,” Thompson stated. “This is what I see my friends wearing when we go out.”
Thebe Magugu brought a more introspective theme to his collection, rooted in personal experiences. The LVMH Prize-winning designer shared, “It was quite personal, inspired by my recent reconciliation with my estranged father.” The South African designer, who also has Malawian heritage, incorporated elements from both cultures into his work.
His collection featured chitenge prints and a blue-green silk shirt designed with a cape inspired by a map of Lake Malawi. Additionally, trompe l’oeil cow prints paid homage to South Africa’s Nguni cattle, blending masculine and feminine styles. Thebe Magugu FC jerseys transformed into tea dresses embellished with marabou feathers, while satin suits showcased his diverse aesthetic. “My style embodies both masculine and feminine energies,” Magugu explained, aiming to reflect that duality in his designs.
Sukeina, designed by Omar Salam, offered a different take, channeling a contemporary interpretation of historical figures like Mary, Queen of Scots, through slinky black dresses accented with high, ruffled white collars. However, Salam emphasized that his choice to forgo color in much of the collection was intentional. “Around half of the pieces demonstrate the nuanced spectrum of black,” he noted.
Yet, color made a bold entrance in his evening dresses, featuring striking scarlet hues. Constructed from heavy crepe with elaborate folds and adorned with braided fringe, these designs aimed to provoke thought and engagement. “Red is more of a mood than a color,” Salam said. “We wanted to create pieces that invite people to look deeper; they aren’t just dresses—they’re moments.”
The collection presentations were not only visually captivating but also significant in their implications. “African fashion” encompasses a diverse and rich spectrum that cannot simply be categorized under one umbrella. Despite Africa’s extensive contributions to various art forms, including architecture, dance, and music, the fashion industry often overlooks the continent’s distinct narratives.
By establishing a presence on one of the industry’s most prestigious platforms, CANEX Presents Africa is paving the way for authentic African expression in the global fashion landscape. “We are entering a new era where Africans can create not only for themselves but for the world,” Salam concluded.
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